Replaced/radio in error mode now

Runs awesome, but stangely the radio displays an error on the screen, and the CD won't insert...what is this related to...possibly being the battery was disconnected for so long the memory is lost?

Each radio has its own anti-theft code. You need either the 5 digit activation (anti-theft) code number to reset the radio or the radio serial number to get the code from a Honda dealer.

There are a few options available to you to get the code if you can't find it in the owners manual or with the original paperwork.

The first is to call your dealer if you bought the car new from them. They should have the code on file. If you didn't buy the car new, don't despair. Here's what to do in that case.

First look inside your glove box on the sides of the glove box there may be a white sticker with either one or two rows of numbers. The sticker will be about 1" long and .5" high. If there are two rows of numbers the top row will be a 5 digit number and that is your radio anti-theft code. If there is only one row of numbers and they are about 9 or 10 letters and numbers that is the serial number for the radio. If you have the serial number you can call your honda dealer and they can look up the radio code from the serial number.

If the tag isn't inside the glove box, take out the ashtray and check behind it to see if its glued on there. If not there, check under the trunk lid. The dealers usually put the stickers in on of those places.

If you can't find the tag then you have to retrieve the serial number and call a honda dealer to get the code. To retrieve the serial number on your radio follow this procedure.

With the key in the ignition and turned to the ON position but with the radio OFF, use your right hand to hold in the radio station buttons numbered 1 and 6. then, continue to hold the buttons in as you turn the radio on with your left hand, continue to hold the buttons in until you see a series of 5 numbers and letters starting with the letter U, release the buttons and write the first series of numbers down, then a second series of numbers will be displayed starting with the letter L, write those numbers down. The 10 charactors are your radio's serial number. Call any honda dealer and give them the serial number and they will be able to get you your activation code.

Wiring diagram 06 chev trailblazer

This vehicle will not crank over with the key. But will start when i put power to the ignition side of the starter. I checked the start fuse it is good.It has power to the start fuse when the key is in crank position.I Changed the start relay with a known good relay.

2006 Trailblazer 4.2 2006 Envoy 4.2
Customer Concern:
No crank, the starter will not engage when the key is turned to the start position.
Average Reported Mileage:
77912
Tests/Procedures:
1. With the key in the run and start position check for Battery Voltage (B+) at fuse #22 in the under hood fuse block.

2. If there is less than B+ at #22 fuse check for B+ with the key in the run and start position at connector C201 at the steering column harness to the I/P harness, at the base of the steering column pin C6 Pink wire.

3. If there is less than B+ at pin C6, check for B+ at pin D2 Red wire of the same connector.

4. If there is B+ at pin D2 but not at pin C6, replace the ignition switch.

Identifix shows 5 confirmed fixes for this problem, replacing the ignition switch.

Torque converter lockup

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I have a 1992 Chevy caviler and the problem is after a short drive at 50 mph when I come to
a stop it starts to jerk back and forth then the engine stalls. It will start again but! when I put it into drive it slams into drive and stalls again. If I wait about 15-mins it will work in drive fine.

Could this be the torque converter locking up?

You can unplug the electrical connections to the transaxle and see if it stays running.  If it does, there is a good bet the TCC solenoid is bad.

Would these  electrical connections be on the drivers or passenger side?

The electrical connector is on the transmission.

Washing the car engine

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How can i clean my engine without doing any damage to it?

1. Warm up the engine slightly. Do not get the engine to operating temperature, but allow it to run for a minute or so if it is heavily soiled.
2. Move the car to an area where the soap and material cleaned off will not cause damage or enter a storm drain. If you do not have access to a suitable location, take the vehicle to a car wash with an industrial wastewater treatment system. This is especially important if there is a lot of oil and sludge residue on the engine.
3. Remove the negative terminal cable on the battery then the positive.
4. Cover any exposed electrical components with a plastic bag or plastic wrap. This will prevent the electrical components of the car from being exposed to water which will be needed.
5. Cover the breather or air intake and carburetor on older engines with heavy aluminum foil or plastic. You may choose to tape or tie this in place, since water can cause serious problems if allowed into this area.
6. Brush any loose dirt or debris from the engine surfaces, either using a stiff bristle paint brush, or a plastic bristle cleaning brush.
7. Mix a solution of "grease cutting" dish detergent and water, using about 2 cups detergent to one gallon water.
8. Brush your solution on the engine, working it into the dirtiest areas, wetting them thoroughly.
9. Get a garden hose. Thoroughly rinse the engine.
10. Consult the vehicle's service manual and look up material that will be needed to clean the engine block and other metal parts. For heavy grease, you may have to use a solvent like mineral spirits, but engine de-greaser, available at automotive supply stores would be better. A household de-greaser such as Simple Green may also be effective. Be sure to follow the instructions on the container.
11. Remove plastic after rinsing engine and cleaning away residue of whatever chemical that you used to clean the metal components.
12. Let the engine dry. Most engines with high energy ignitions will run with the plug wires (and distributor) wet, but may misfire or run "rough" until these components dry out completely.
13. Remove all the materials you used to cover electrical and fuel system components.

Tire Pressure - Check Often

This single and simple thing is perhaps the most neglected on all of our cars. Make it a habit to check your tire pressure once a month. It can save your tires, warn you that you have a leak, and save (some say) 5% on fuel use if they were real low! Check that spare tire too at least once a year! The space saver tires go low after a few years many are dangerously flat to use. Some air escapes through the rubber over time like it does with balloons and doesn't necessarily mean a problem if a lot of time has passed.

It's a WIN-WIN-WIN thing to do. Check for the correct pressure for your vehicle what the recommended pressure is and keep it there.

Tires are made to hold more than the cold recommended pressure but I still suggest a routine of checking them. a 40-60 increase in temp from last checked shouldn't be a monster problem as they are slowing losing pressure anyway. The real trouble seems to be the super hot weather and highway driving on a road you could bake a cake on! Just use common sense and check them. Happy and safe motoring, 

2002 Ford Taurus - Alleged EGR Valve and Sensor failure

2002 Ford Taurus
3.0L V-6
180K miles
Automatic transmission
Front wheel drive
Nothing aftermarket, as far as I know - I bought it used.

Okay, the story so far: I drove one block from work to the grocery store during my lunch break. When I came out of the store my Taurus wouldn't start. I had it towed to the shop, and they said they started it up and drove it into the bay with no problem. So they did some testing and told me that the EGR Valve and the EGR Pressure Sensor were malfunctioning, and it was going to cost more than $300 to fix it, but the car was currently running. I didn't have the money at the time, so I just paid them for the diagnosis and drove the car home.

A few weeks later the car stalled on the highway while my g/f was driving it, and it hasn't started since. Trying to save a few dimes, I replaced the EGR valve and the sensor myself since the parts were affordable. The car still won't start. I've read something online about the EGR Vaccuum solenoid, but the shop didn't say anything about that.

My question is, am I barking up the wrong tree, or should I try to replace the EGR Vacuum Solenoid? Could these be symptoms of something totally different? From the stuff I've read online, I've gleaned that anything from spark plugs to catalytic converter can cause the same symptoms. So I'm stumped...and my budget's pretty tight, so I'd like to do as much myself as possible.

Any insight?

Sounds like a fuel issue. You can have someone start the car while you spray carburetor cleaner into the throttle body. If it will run as long as you are spraying and die when you stop spraying, It is a fuel problem. The next step would be to check the fuel pressure. If it is a flex-fuel vehicle, it should have 30-65 PSI with the key on, engine off (when the pump is running.) If it is not a flex-fuel vehicle, it should have 39-65 PSI, key on engine off.

If the fuel pump runs, but pressure is below these specs, you will need a fuel pump. If the fuel pump does not run, you will need to check for voltage at the inertia switch. If the car is not a station wagon, the switch is located in the trunk, right side behind the trim panel. It will have a button on top of the switch. If it is a wagon, the switch is behind the back seat, right side behind the trim panel. You should have battery voltage to both wires of the switch when the starter is turning the engine over, or for about 1.5 seconds when you first turn on the ignition. If you get voltage there, then check for the same voltage at the fuel pump connector. If voltage is good, but low (or no)fuel pressure, replace the fuel pump.

One more thing, aftermarket fuel pumps have a high rate of failure, I recommend a genuine Motorcraft pump if one is needed....

BEST TIP FOR YOUR CARS PAINT

OK lets say you want to bring the life back to your cars shine and it wont cost you 3,000.00 or even 300.00. First look at your cars finish if it doesn't have any white cloudy peeled back shedding skin look your in good shape most likely you have a single stage paint but if you have base clear and your clear coat is alittle dull you can do this as well. Be careful not following these steps could remove your paint, First a high speed buffer and 3M Perfect it III compound Yes this gets messy. Make sure this is a circular buffer and not a rotary it just wont work.

Wash your vehicle and then dry or wet add a little bit of the 3M to an area of the vehicle making sure its enough to do about a 1'x1' square area until you become more familuar with the buffer. Use a low speed setting around 2 or 3 DO NOT USE ANY WEIGHT LET THE BUFFER GLIDE ACROSS THE SURFACE going back and forth to and fro. do this until the area is clean of compound you should see a BIG change in your cars finish if you do it right. Yes you can repeat this step over if the finish is not shining but be careful dont take too much paint off the vehicle even a body shop or expert detailer doesnt know how much paint is left on a car until he or she looks at it and tries a spot.

This is a secret of most automotive Paint or detail shops.

Car overheating

1998 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2L

Purchased this car off craigslist. Has several issues but am trying to resolve them myself. The car overheats but is NOT losing coolant. I have since replaced the water pump, radiator, radiator fan motor, and radiator hoses. Car still overheats. It does not seem to be rushing around in the coolant tank. Could it be blocked somewhere? I was thinking about bypassing the heater core to see if that would solve the problem?

No oil in the water, no water in the oil. Coolant does not get low. Could it be possible the head's blown? Nothing indicates that. Car runs like a dream.

Engine codes... several of them but most have been fixed I think. P0141 which was the oxygen sensor code. Replaced it but light came back back on for it. The others went away though. Replaced cam position sensor, and the crank position sensor and those codes no longer register... just p0141.

Any advice or questions?

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Speed makes a difference for 2 reasons.
If it overheats at stops or under 30-35 mph, but does not heat up at higher speeds, it indicates a lack of airflow through the radiator, i.e. a cooling fan problem.
If it heats up at highway speeds, but runs cooler at lower speeds,(lower rpm) it indicates a problem with coolant flow.

Have you checked the coolant level again to be sure the coolant is still full, and has not gone low due to the thermostat opening?

Another thing to mention; you say you checked the thermostat and it was opening in boiling water. Is it opening fully? I have had to change thermostats that were partially opening, but still causing a restricted flow and causing overheating. If it is not opening all the way, this could be your problem.

If everything checks out good, call a radiator shop and ask if they have a "block tester" that checks for combustion in the cooling system and have that checked....

Is this a "4" motor(8th digit of VIN)?

If I am going though the trouble of pulling out a thermostat, it's getting replaced(use OEM, there have been some problems with aftermarket).....

A plugged heater core can cause overheating(the core acts as the engine by pass)......Drive the car on the highway, and as the coolant temp needle reaches the 11 o'clock position, turn the selector to vent, full heat(windows open)....continue down the road.....should have about 145-150F heat from vents.....as the engine continues to move towards overheating, does the temp out of the vents drop? If it does, there is either an air pocket being formed or the core is plugged(can be verified by touching the inlet and outlet hoses to the core.....SHOULD be the same temp....if the outlet is cooler, try a reverse flush....

Coolant fan should come on at about 228F.....

Absolutely sure you are not losing coolant? Always check reservoir level when cold.....if this has a radiator cap, check radiator level cold too...if it doesn't have one(the pressure cap is on the reservoir), then just check level in reservoir.....