Long-term and Winter Storage Tips for vehicles.

Long-term and Winter Storage Tips for vehicles.

We receive questions about vehicle storage regularly, especially in the fall. I would like to start the definitive vehicle storage thread in this forum to save members from having to re-post the information every few months.

Proper preparation can make a big difference in the preservation of any vehicle. Anyone can park a car, but if it's not stored properly, significant, costly damage can accumulate. Often, it's worthwhile to do a little work now to save big headaches in the future.

So here are some tips, in priority order; with (imo) the most important tips coming first. Not everyone does all these preparations, but I have been storing vehicles, often for several years at a time, since I was a kid in the mid-1970's, so I have a good idea of the damage that might happen and how to avoid it.

1.Fuel System Add some fuel stabilizer to the gas tank and fill the tank. Drive the car for a couple of miles so the stabilizer can make its way through the fuel line. The stabilizer stops the gas from decomposing, and the full tank minimizes the airspace in the tank, so rust-forming condensation does not appear.

If you are going to store a car for more than a year, it's best to drain the tank and make sure it's dry and well vented. If the car is carbureted, run the engine until the carb is dry.

2. Battery. Remove the battery and store it in a cool or cold place. If you can't remove it, then disconnect the negative terminal. Either way, it's best to give the battery a few hours of low-amp trickle charge every month or two. I have been told by an Exide representative that batteries last longer when cold. If fully charged, the best place for it is in your freezer. But I just leave it in an unheated garage.

3.Engine Change the engine oil and filter. Used engine oil, even if it's not that old, usually has acids and contaminants that can slowly etch or damage smooth engine surfaces, like bearing journals, lifters, etc. After the change, run the engine for few minutes to let the fresh oil circulate.

Use an engine oil fogger on the engine if you live in a damp climate and/or if you expect to store the car for a long time. This coats the valves and cylinder walls in an oil film which reduces rust build-up.

There really is no need to periodically start an engine in storage, if it's been properly prepped. Imo, the effects of a cold start and condensation generated by combustion is probably more harmful than simply leaving it alone. However, I have several vehicles that have been in storage for many years. About once a year, I put in a battery and fuel, start them up and let them run until fully warm. When they cool down, I drain the carb and prep them for storage again.

4. Brakes If the brake system has not been flushed in a few years, do it now (unless you have DOT 5 fluid). Drain the master cylinder and add fresh fluid. Bleed all the brake lines until fresh fluid comes out. If your brake rotors are really nice, carefully give them a coat of WD-40, but avoid contaminating the pads. Remember to clean off the WD-40 with a spray can of brake cleaner before driving.

5. Coolant. Check the coolant strength (specific gravity). If the cooling system has not been serviced in recent years, do it now. A periodic flush and fill is part of proper vehicle maintenance. Check the owners manual for the recommended frequency. Personally, I think that aluminum blocks and/or heads require this service every 2 -3 years.

6. Cleaning Wash the outside of the car. Hose off the wheelwells and any place underneath where dirt has collected. Vacuum the inside, because dirt can attract and hold condensation. Clean all hard upholstery surfaces (vinyl, leather etc) with Armor-All or similar preservative product. Remove all floor mats and store separately, as they can hold condensation on the carpet/floor.

A Gore-Tex cover is nice, but not necessary. Avoid impervious, plastic covers, as they hold condensation. A coat of wax is nice on all chrome and on the body,if you have older technology paint, like acrylic lacquer. It's not important for newer paints, though.

7. Suspension and Tires I like to raise the car on jackstands or blocks so the tires are off the ground and the suspension droops. Again, this is not required for winter storage, but is a nice touch for longer storage periods. Inflate the tires to recommended specifications. A coating of Armor-All on the tire sidewalls helps preserve their appearance.

8. Pests. Get some mouse traps. Bait them with peanut butter and place them underneath the car, with a couple more inside. Check them occasionally. Sticky mouse pads are good too. Avoid mouse poisons, since you will end up finding the dead mice in the headliner, under the seats etc.

Don't use mothballs, either. They stink up the car and don't work very well.

Personally, animals have caused more storage damage to my cars over the years than everything else put together. Hopefully, you will not have to deal with rats or porcupines, as I have on occasion. If they are present, use the appropriate traps.

9. Rust. If your car has any bare metal / rusty spots underneath, get a spray can of aerosol grease/undercoating/paint etc. and give them a quick blast, or have the car professionally undersprayed with an oily rustproofing material.

10. Storage Buildings. Hopefully, you have a nice place to store the car. Ideally, the building should be wood or concrete. Steel garages are okay, but suffer from more severe temperature fluctuations unless they are insulated. They tend to get quite warm in the daytime sun, then cool down quickly at night, which promotes condensation.

An impervious floor is important, be it concrete, asphalt, brick or wood. But if you have to store it on a dirt surface (either inside or outdoors), spread a large sheet of plastic on the ground first, then drive on it. This reduces the effects of condensation. If you must park in a barn, avoid the lower level of any hay barn (a.k.a. 'ramp barn'). The stone walls, dirt floors and dampness are trouble. The upper level, with good ventilation and a wood floor are preferable.

11. Outdoor Storage. Obviously, outside storage is not ideal, but can be a reasonable choice. I stored a 1967 Continental outside for 13 years with minimal damage, thanks to good preparation, periodic maintenance, a well ventilated, relatively dry space, with a plastic mat on the ground, and a good car cover. If you do so, avoid a windy location and make sure your cover is strapped down so it does not move. A cover that moves in the wind can damage paint.

So, hopefully your car will survive the storage period in pristine shape. and ready for the road in the spring.

Trouble! I have seen some terrible things happen due to improper storage. For example, one friend stored his 1960 Rolls-Royce for 5 years in a barn, Unfortunately, it was in the lower level, with stone walls and a dirt floor. It was a good looking and good running car when it went in, but he did no prep.


When it came out of storage, it was heavily damaged. The Rolls V8 (first year) was seized solid from rust. The brakes were worthless piles of rust, with no salvageable parts. The classic aluminum body (final year for the style) was dusty with corrosion and pitting. Most fasteners in the engine compartment and undercarriage were seized with rust. The tires were severely damaged from sitting flat on the ground. The chrome and nickel plate was rusty in areas. The wool-and-leather interior was a split-level mouse condo. All the soft materials were chewed/cracked, stained etc beyond use. The real burled-walnut trim was de-laminating.

Car Loan Tips

Car Loan Tips

Financing a new car purchase requires some research. Before venturing out to the car dealerships uninformed, let's take a look at what you will need to know about the car buying process.

First of all, about 70% of all new car purchases are financed. So unless you plan on paying cash for your new car, or you are going to apply for a car loan, chances are you will be financing your purchase.

1. Determine your financial situation
This is the first and most important step in the car buying process. You must know how much you can spend before you can determine what you can afford. You don't want to get stuck making a bloated car payment that will leave you eating bologna sandwiches for three years.

First of all, you need to have a monthly budget. This is very easy to calculate. Add up all of your fixed monthly expenses, such as your rent/mortgage, phone bill, etc. Subtract that from your net income. Then subtract your estimated extraneous expenses, such as food, gas, entertainment, whatever. The result should be an amount of money you have to play with.

From that, you need to remember that buying a car involves more than a down payment and monthly payments. In your budget you will need to include licensing, registration and other hidden costs, as well as monthly insurance costs, gas and maintenance.

Once you have all of this worked out, you should have a ballpark figure of the budgeted amount you can use for car payments. A good rule of thumb is roughly 20 percent of your net income can be used for a car payment. Once you determine that figure, stay with it.

2. Decide which car you want
Now that you have settled on a monthly allotment, now you can look at which vehicles fit into your price range.

This is really about personal choice, but a good criteria to go buy is to look at what your needs are. Do you have a family? There are plenty of affordable, safe and reliable minivans and station wagons on the market. Single and commute, or do a lot of city driving? The compact segment has a wide range of models to choose from that boast handling and superior gas mileage. Do you use your vehicle for work-related tasks, such as hauling, delivery, etc? Check out the many light and heavy-duty pickup trucks and vans. Midlife crisis? There are several convertibles and sports cars that will make you feel young again.

Also consider your wants. Compact cars get really good gas mileage and are a great if you want to save money on the increasing gas prices. Plan on taking road trips? Consider something that gets good mileage and has cargo space and lots of cup holders. Plan on going off-roading? The SUV is your best bet. Some even come with a first-aid kit!

Once you've narrowed your choices down to a couple, it's time to do some car research.

3. Do your homework
All right, Columbo. Here's where you will need to spend some time sorting through some details, but it will be worth the effort in the end. After all, the more you know about what you're buying, about whom you're buying from, and about the buying process itself, the more money you will end up saving.

There are plenty of places for you to do your car research. Check out the Internet and newspapers, contact car dealerships, credit unions and local banks to see what kind of deal you can get. Knowing what a car dealer's competition is offering can only help you out in the negotiating process.

Look at interest rates. You'll want to get the lowest possible interest rate, as it will help you pay less in the long run. Many car buyers focus on getting the lowest possible down payment. If a car dealer gives you a low down payment, the money you are saving has to be made back. Car dealers will find ways to lower your down payment, and as a result will find ways to compensate for their generosity. By deferring the down payment "savings," with interest, you'll end up paying more in the long run.

Also be aware of factory-to-dealer incentives. The secret is that the manufacturer refunds a certain percentage of the car's price to the dealer. So even if the car dealer sells you a car at the invoice price, he or she will still make money from the deal. Find out about a manufacturer's incentive percentage, as they are public information.

You should also look out for rebates. When incentives are offered, this often means the manufacturer wants to either get rid of slow-selling cars or reduce the inventory. Therefore, they may also offer the buyer a cash rebate and a low financing rate, or an option of one of the two.

4. Go to the car dealerships
Now that you have an understanding of what kind of rate you will be offered, you now want to go out to the car dealerships. You already have an idea of what kind of car you want, how much you can spend and what kind of perks you can get. Also you have an idea as to what different car dealerships are offering. This is quite a bit of information for you to carry with you into the negotiating process. But again, the more you know, the better off you'll be. But remember: Car dealers are professional negotiators and do it everyday. You are a novice and will be treated as such. The car dealers aren't going to be easy on you, nor are they going to point out all the ways you can save money. It's up to you to find all of those.


Also remember that you are in control at all times. You have the right and ability to stand up and walk out of the office at any point and the dealer will lose the sale. Don't let a car dealer intimidate you. Be relaxed and comfortable you know all the information and that you hold all the cards.

Standard Car Insurance Coverage

Standard Car Insurance Coverage

• Standard Car insurance coverage varies from state to state, but in simplest terms it is the basic amount of auto insurance coverage a driver needs in order to legally operate a motorized vehicle. It is also sometimes referred to as the mandatory minimum required insurance to operate a vehicle in a state.

• Standard coverage includes liability insurance which is coverage that pays for any property or bodily damage done by the driver. This coverage protects you against any damage you may cause to another’s vehicle. Many times insurance is referred to as a set of 3 numbers such as 100/300/100. These numbers refer to the amount of bodily and property damage you are covered for. The first number is the amount of coverage for bodily injury caused to another person, the second number is the amount of coverage for bodily injuries caused to everyone involved in the accident and the third number is the amount of coverage for property damage.


• Check what the minimum requirements are for each state so you can make sure you are properly covered. If you need to save some money it is best to not lower your coverage to the minimum amount required by your state since this could lead you to be under insured if you are in a serious accident. Instead of lowering your coverage amount, most experts advise to try and raise your deductible amount which will cause you to pay a higher deductible in the event of an accident, but will save you much more money than if you had lowered your coverage amounts.

Why Does My Car Squeal When I Turn the Steering Wheel?

Why Does My Car Squeal When I Turn the Steering Wheel?

 If your car is making a squealing or squeaking sound when you turn the steering wheel, there could be any of several culprits at play.

 One common cause is low power-steering fluid. When the fluid that powers and lubricates conventional power-steering systems gets low, it can lead to a squealing noise that may sustain for as long as the steering wheel remains off-center. Checking the fluid and replacing if necessary might be enough to solve the problem. Contamination of the fluid by dirt and debris also could be at the root of the problem. A failing power-steering pump could likewise be the cause. If adding fluid doesn't solve the problem, a technician should be able to identify the cause and recommend a repair.

 A suspension or steering component that's lost lubrication also could cause a squeak or squeal when the steering wheel is in motion. Tie-rod ends, seals, ball joints and universal joints all need lubrication, and if they dry out, that could lead to noise. Again, a technician should be able to identify the problem and recommend a repair.

 We've also experienced squeaks from the steering wheel housing in new cars rubbing against interior trim — typically in hot weather when materials expand and gaps close up. In these cases, a trip to the dealer or body shop might be in order — hopefully for warranty work.
Finally, tire noise could be the cause of the squeal that you're hearing, especially if it happens only when the vehicle is driven on certain surfaces.

 If your vehicle is making a squealing sound when the steering wheel is being turned, start by checking the power-steering fluid level and replacing/adding as necessary — and if that doesn't eliminate the noise, make an appointment with a service technician.

Why Does My Car Heater Blow Cold Air?

Why Does My Car Heater Blow Cold Air?


When you're getting a blast of cold air, especially one you don't want, chances are that something has gone wrong in or around the heater core. It's a small radiator that generates heat by allowing engine coolant to circulate so that the fan blows warmed air into the cabin to keep everyone toasty.

Because the heater core is usually placed in an inconvenient location (behind the dashboard) you might want to have a pro look elsewhere first to eliminate simpler possibilities.

First, check the coolant level when the engine is cold. If it's really low, it might not be able to warm the heater core. The cooling system thermostat also may not be opening, preventing coolant from circulating. In these cases, there's also a good chance your engine will be running hot, and be in danger of overheating.

If neither of those is the cause then the heater core and ancillary components are likely culprits. If water isn't circulating through the heater core, perhaps a diverter or valve isn't opening to allow that flow, or the core itself is leaking or clogged. Another possibility is that a door or diverter that is supposed to direct warm air into the interior is stuck.
On cars with automatic temperature control, a "set-and-forget" feature that is supposed to maintain a constant temperature, the computer that controls the system might be malfunctioning. It's possible that the heater core and other parts are fine, but the computer has grown tired of constantly catering to your climate needs and stopped answering your calls.

Because diagnosing and fixing these kinds of problem can be complex, most consumers would likely be better off seeking a professional opinion. If you search the internet, you will find many instances in which do-it-yourselfers say they did this and tried that, but their heater still blows cold air.

What Does the Check-Engine Light Mean?

What Does the Check-Engine Light Mean?



That is a signal that the onboard diagnostics system (or OBD II) has detected a malfunction in the vehicle's emissions, ignition or fuel systems. It could be something as simple as a loose gas cap or something as severe as a faulty catalytic converter, so you shouldn't ignore it. All cars and light trucks have onboard diagnostics that are supposed to detect engine-related problems that affect the emissions control systems.

The check-engine light (typically a yellow or orange outline of an engine with the word "Check") should come on for a few seconds every time you start the engine with other warning lights. If it stays on, that means there is a problem.

If the check engine light is flashing, that usually indicates a misfire or other serious issue, and it should be dealt with quickly at an auto repair shop. Ignoring a flashing light increases the chances of additional problems, including damaging an expensive catalytic converter (which costs more than $1,000 to replace on some cars).

If it isn't flashing, before rushing to an auto repair shop you should first tighten the gas cap because a loose cap can trigger a warning. See if the light goes off after several engine starts over the next day or so. Replacing a worn gas cap that doesn't fully seal may also solve the problem.

If that doesn't do the trick, an auto technician will need to diagnose the problem by electronically tapping into an OBD II connector under the dashboard to read diagnostic codes that will help isolate what caused the light to go on, such as a bad spark plug or oxygen sensor.
Even if your vehicle seems to be performing well and your mileage isn't dropping, it's a bad idea to just ignore a check-engine light. Something is wrong, and it's likely to get worse. In addition, if you live in an area where vehicles have to pass periodic emissions tests, an activated check-engine light usually means your vehicle will automatically fail.

read :  DASH / INSTRUMENT WARNING LIGHTS ( CHECK ENGINE LIGHT )

DASH / INSTRUMENT WARNING LIGHTS

DASH / INSTRUMENT WARNING LIGHTS



THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT / MAINT REQD LIGHT.
This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you.
Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.



THE ELECTRICAL FAULT LIGHT.
This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.



BRAKE WARNING LIGHT 1
Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. The brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.



BRAKE WARNING LIGHT 2
If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, then take note. It's not doing that just to please itself. Compared to a steady light, a blinking ABS light normally indicates something more serious. In some cases it could be as bad as "you have no brakes at all."



COOLANT WARNING LIGHT
This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.

 

OIL WARNING LIGHT
Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.

DASH / INSTRUMENT WARNING LIGHTS ( CHECK ENGINE LIGHT )

DASH / INSTRUMENT WARNING LIGHTS ( CHECK ENGINE LIGHT )

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain).
P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked.
It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device inand reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain.
If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS 2

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS 2

FUEL / GAS

WILL HIGHER OCTANE OR PREMIUM FUEL GIVE ME BETTER GAS MILEAGE AND/OR MORE POWER?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.

BODYWORK / PAINT

KEEPING YOUR PAINT FINISH IN GOOD CONDITION

Only choose superior car detailing supplies to keep your car's interior and exterior like new. There are plenty of decent quality waxes and polishes on the market today and if the last time you waxed or polished your car was over a decade ago, things have changed considerably since then. The wax and polish compounds are far more sophisticated both in terms of protection from fading, the look of the finish, and the ease of application. For example Turtle Wax Ice gets rid of that old problem of white wax residue. Is a clean car a vanity thing? Partly, yes, but if you park under a tree where birds help repaint your car with recycled blueberries, that guck will come off a lot easier if it falls on a waxed paint job.
Tip: If you find a bird has pooped on your car, wash it off as quick as you can. There are compounds in bird waste that can damage most car paint jobs. If you leave it in the sun and the poop bakes on, you could end up with a dull spot in the paint.

ELECTRICAL

DISCONNECTING AND RECONNECTING YOUR BATTERY

If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.

CHECK YOUR BATTERY TERMINALS

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.

LIGHTS

ONE INDICATOR OR BLINKER IS FLASHING FASTER THAN THE OTHER

When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.

DON'T TOUCH THE GLASS WHEN CHANGING HEADLIGHT BULBS

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS

WHEELS AND TYRES

ROTATE YOUR TYRES!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres.  Tyre rotation.

CLEAN BRAKE DUST OFF REGULARLY

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURES

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.  Checking your tyre pressure.

CHECK YOUR TREAD DEPTH

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident.  Tread wear bars.

While lurking on the Internet and collect the best tips for you, I tried to find the best online-resource with different wheels and tires. I found CARiD website as a really good place to do shopping: 

ENGINE

CHECK YOUR BELTS

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury:  Interference engines

FUEL ECONOMY

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.  Checking your tyre pressures

CHECKING YOUR OIL LEVEL

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here Checking your oil level.

CHECKING YOUR COOLANT LEVEL

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you.  Engine cooling systems.

10 Steps for Selling Your Car

10 Steps for Selling Your Car

Whether you're looking to unload your car quickly or get the best offer for it, it's smart to start with a little preparation. With tools and information for every step of the process: from determining your car's value to setting your asking price to getting a firm online offer.

• Step 1: Gather Your Car’s Information
• Step 2: Know Your Car's True Condition
• Step 3: Decide Whether to Trade-in or Sell Yourself
• Step 4: Increase Your Car’s Resale Value
• Step 5: Set the Asking Price for Your Car
• Step 6: Create an Online Ad That Sells
• Step 7: Screen Potential Buyers
• Step 8: Use the Test Drive to Sell
• Step 9: Negotiate the Best Price for Your Car
• Step 10: Complete the Sale

Tip:

If you don't have your service receipts, ask your dealer, regular mechanic or oil change center if they can print a statement that summarizes your visits. This kind of information reassures a buyer that the car is in good shape, which can help you get a higher price.

 STEPS TO BUYING A USED CAR 3

Step 3: Find Your Car's Value

Used Vehicle from a Dealer
If you visit a large, reputable dealer with a brand franchise, there will likely be a variety of used vehicles for sale on the lot. Although not necessarily backed by the manufacturer, these vehicles may include an extended or "aftermarket" warranty or service program offered by the dealer. Because dealers offer warranties and service programs, the used cars they sell must be refurbished to meet warranty standards. In truth, most vehicles in the used inventory of a brand-franchised dealer will not have been taken in trades for new cars at that dealership, but will instead have been purchased at one of the numerous auctions where dealers buy and sell used cars to and from each other. This means that most used cars any dealership takes in trades will be sold at those auctions, and for a variety of reasons. Perhaps a vehicle isn't in good condition, or maybe it doesn't fit within the mix that dealership prefers for its used inventory. The truth is, most cars that get traded for something newer aren't in very good shape; that's why their owners are getting ride of them.

Pricing for retail cars at a dealership will vary, but because of the refurbishing a dealer must do to ready the car or truck for sale, the retail price of the used car will typically be more than a private party price.

Used Vehicle from a Private Party
It's unfortunate that in this day and age we must be wary of buying from individuals, but this is where the risk of used car buying is at its highest. Before arriving at the home of the private party seller, it is advisable to ask the seller a series of questions about the vehicle. Get as much information as possible on ownership history, mileage, maintenance upkeep and especially the condition of the car. Is there any body damage, even relatively small dents or dings? Is the exterior paint dull, chipped, scratched or peeling? Is the interior of the car stained, faded, cracked or torn? How does the car drive? Does the steering pull to one side or the other? Are the brakes working well? Do the tires have wear and do they match? Another very important question is this: Is the seller in possession of the title or certificate of ownership? One good way to protect yourself from buying an unsatisfactory car is to check the vehicle's history by requesting an AutoCheck Record check.

Used Online Buying
If you want to buy a used vehicle online, there are many used car buying sites, including eBay Motors, where you can search for the car you need and easily get in touch with the seller.

For private party purchase, online classifieds can greatly increase the quality of communication between you and the seller with photos, history, mileage and other vital facts that are clearly displayed on each vehicle entry. You can also apply online for an extended warranty on your used car for added security.

Certified Pre-Owned
Manufacturers' certified programs have taken much of the risk out of used car shopping by offering excellent warranties on very clean, refurbished used vehicles, called Certified Pre-Owned, or CPO. Only certain vehicles qualify for certification. Typically, the vehicle must be under five years old and have less than 75,000 miles on the odometer, although each manufacturer will have its own standards.

Manufacturers vary in how many points of the Certified Pre-Owned vehicles are checked or reconditioned, but most put a vehicle through a complete check of all major systems. Visit our Certified Pre-Owned section to familiarize yourself with the different certified programs and you will be better able to make a decision. Certification is actually done by the dealer and, since it costs the dealer money, expect to pay more for a certified used car.

For many buyers a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle represents the best deal in the industry. The vehicle will be in excellent condition, in most cases it includes additional warranty coverage, which can be quite extensive, and it may also be applicable to that manufacturer's financing programs. Since it will be a used car, that means the initial, and heavy, depreciation will have been taken by someone else - the first owner. You get a very clean used car, with the advantages of reduced depreciation and the peace-of-mind of some level of additional warranty coverage, which in many cases exceeds the original warranty. Unless you're the type of person who absolutely, positively needs a brand-new car, you will benefit tremendously by checking out a manufacturer's Certified Pre-Owned inventory, which can usually be done on-line through that manufacturer's website.

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STEPS TO BUYING A USED CAR 2

STEPS TO BUYING A USED CAR 2

Step 2: What's the Right Car for You?

OK, if you made it this far, we are assuming you have a year, make and model in mind. Now let's go shopping. If you haven't already done so, it's time to empower yourself by visiting Kelley Blue Book's Used Car Retail Values. Here you can find out how much a dealer might be asking for your desired model. Keep in mind that most used vehicles are sold below asking price, depending on local market conditions. We provide the Blue Book Suggested Retail value of models dating back 21 years. While you're there, take the opportunity to get a Blue Book Trade-In value for your own car. You will see how various options, mileage and overall condition will affect the value of your vehicle.

If you need help assessing the condition of your car, we can help you rate it with the Condition Quiz. By filling out a series of questions, we help you determine whether the car is in Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor condition. When you reach the options check-list page, fill in the vehicle mileage and various options, and then go to the bottom of the page. There is a section titled "Select Vehicle Condition." Check the box titled "Rate It," then enter your information onto the online form. Kelley will rate the condition of the vehicle based upon your input.

Avoid making a very common mistake and do not over-estimate the condition and, therefore, the value of your current car. And do not take the position that you must have a certain amount of money for it. That car will be worth to the dealer exactly what the dealer figures it is worth, on that day, at that time, and sales managers, particularly those at larger dealerships, tend to have very accurate reads on current market conditions and therefore vehicle valuations. If you deceive yourself into inflating the value of your current car, it will only lead to difficulties later, when the dealership will deliver a reality check.

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STEPS TO BUYING A USED CAR 1

STEPS TO BUYING A USED CAR 1

Step 1: Find Out How Much You Can Afford

Many of us may remember when buying a used car ranked right up there with a trip to the dentist. But times have changed and buying a used car need not be the horror it once was. Today's consumer has so much information (at least, the information is available), as to make the experience of buying a used car far less stressful. This transformation will occur, however, only if you obey a rule taught to every first-grade student: DO YOUR HOMEWORK.

Decide What You Want to Spend, and Can Spend
Before considering the purchase of a used car, it is wise to establish the amount you are willing to spend or, if taking a loan, calculate your maximum monthly payment - and then make a firm commitment to stay within that amount.

Once you figure out how much your payment should be, research your financing options. You can work out a loan with the dealership or manufacturer, but it is also possible to walk into a dealership with financing already secured through a third-party source, such as our official, preferred lender LightStream, an online lending division of SunTrust Bank, and the preferred lender of Kelley Blue Book. Third-party financing can generally be obtained without having to indicate a specific make or model of vehicle ahead of time. Some institutions will give you a lower interest rate if you have direct deposit and an electronic loan payment, so be sure to ask about these options when applying for financing.

Don't forget to consider the costs of tax, title, registration and insurance for your new car. As a very broad, general rule, and depending upon where you live, tax, license, assorted fees and other costs will add roughly 10 percent to the purchase price. This makes the price of a $30,000 car actually about $33,000 and, if you're financing the deal, you will be paying interest on that additional amount. You should be able to afford the car as well as its costs of ownership. Insurance can be a deal-breaker for some, since some companies will raise your rates considerably, depending upon the type of vehicle you choose and your driving record. Typically, sport cars, anything with "turbo" or "supercharged" in the name, higher performance vehicles with larger or more powerful engines and vehicles with four-wheel drive will give you higher insurance rates. Also, consider that vehicles with histories of being stolen can demand a premium. It always pays to shop around, so check rates with your insurance company before you buy your new vehicle. Get a quote on geico.com. 15 minutes could save you 15% or more. Finally, if you have a long-standing and positive relationship with your current insurance company it may be best to stay with it, even though it may not offer the lowest of all rates. 

Be certain the car you desire can accommodate your daily needs.

You may also want to consider an extended warranty plan. Chances are an extended warranty or service contract will be offered to you by the dealership. An extended warranty covers a wide range of repairs and services. The repairs can be done at any authorized dealership and tend to be easily approved. You won't pay a penny for approved repairs unless your contract includes a deductible. You can also purchase an extended warranty from an independent company that could cost less than an extended service contract from a manufacturer.

Once you've established a price limit, steer clear of vehicles that barely squeeze under it. Leave yourself some wiggle room and shop for a less flashy vehicle with lower mileage or an older one in tip-top shape. You wouldn't want to buy the car of your dreams only to have it drain your bank account because you didn't factor in all of the costs of ownership.

Research the Right Car
Many professionals will tell you that this is where huge numbers of buyers make their biggest mistakes. They don't buy the vehicle that is best for their needs, but instead get smitten with something that doesn't fulfill their requirements, costs far too much money or, typically, both. Figuring out how much you want to spend was the easy part; now you have to find the vehicle that's right for you. But most buyers (yes, most), are not really sure what's out there or even what they need and want. Here are some suggestions: First, make a list of all the things you need your vehicle to do (haul kids, go off-road, get good gas mileage, be absolutely reliable, maintain good re-sale value, be easy to park) and then make a second list of all the things you admire in a vehicle (body style, colors, luxury options). Cross-reference the two. You should end up with a list of required and desired characteristics, which you can use to eliminate models that won't work for you (you can't haul kids in a two-seat sports car or operate a full-size sport utility vehicle on an economy-car fuel budget).

Use Helpful Internet Tools
There is a lot of information available on the internet but, many professionals will tell you, most buyers simply don't use that available information to their best advantage. To help, we've developed a couple of decision guides for refining your search. The Compare New Cars feature will put up to four new or used vehicles side by side for you to compare.

Another useful area of information will be the various websites for the manufacturers. Often, you can learn specifics about not only the new cars, but that manufacturer's previous models, as well. 


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STEPS TO BUYING A NEW CAR 3

STEPS TO BUYING A NEW CAR 3

Step 3: Calculate What You Can Afford

Let Your Budget Do the Driving
When considering a new vehicle purchase, the lines of affordability can easily become blurred due to the varied financing options available. A wise buyer shops for a new vehicle based upon what he or she can truly afford. Keep an open mind and you could be pleasantly surprised by the list of vehicles within your price range.

Affordability is a multi-faceted issue because the car-buying process can consist of several financial considerations. It will help if you determine, accurately and honestly, what your current car is worth, how much of a down payment you can make and a reasonable amount you can handle for monthly payments. Some careful thought and cold, hard honesty will pay big benefits later. Far too many buyers shop for cars that are beyond their budgets, want small down payments, drastically misjudge their capabilities regarding monthly payments and then want to reduce the monthly payments by stretching out the lengths of the loans, all of which leads to trouble in the future.

Another key element is deciding what to do with the current car.? As a general rule, it may be worth more to sell it yourself, to a private party, than to trade it in. But many people don't want to take the time and make the effort to do that. You should understand that if you trade it in you will probably not get as much for it as if you sell it yourself.

The biggest issue for most buyers is the price of the new car. Fortunately, determining the MSRP is easy, and figuring at least a range for a realistic transaction price is also not terribly difficult.

Calculating Affordability
The new-car buying process is greatly simplified when you discover the bottom-line vehicle price you can afford ahead of time.
This is true whether you lease or buy. Here's an example of the kinds of details that may be involved in a typical new-car deal:

1. "The trade-in value of the vehicle I currently own is $10,400."
2. "I owe $2,200 on it." Meaning, you have about $8,200 equity in the car.
3. "I've got $2,000 in savings I want to put down." Meaning, with the trade, you will be able to give the dealer a total of about $10,200.
4. "I want to keep my payments under $400 per month for 60 months." That monthly payment schedule will finance, roughly, about $20,000, meaning the total price of the whole package can be the $20,000 plus the $10,200 you have handed the dealer, or $30,200. That means a new car in the price range of roughly $27,000, because there will be, generally, about 10 percent added in taxes, license, fees and so forth.
5. Furthermore, it means the whole deal, by the time you have paid it off in five years, will have cost you about $34,200 ($400 times 60 months is $24,000, plus the $10,200 you gave the dealer in the form of your trade and the $2,000 down.

This means the same as:

• "I can afford to buy a $27,000 vehicle." And it's going to cost you $34,200 and five years to do it.

There are many online tools available to help you determine affordability.

Your Current Vehicle -- Trade In or Sell Yourself
If your car is in extremely good condition and you have impeccable service records, it may be well worth your while to sell it on your own. On the other hand, if your car needs a lot of work, you may end up putting more money into it than you can recover -- so take a realistic look before you decide.

For trade-in, get the Blue Book® Trade-in Trade-in Value of your current vehicle. This value -- based upon the condition of your vehicle -- is an accurate representation of what you may expect to be offered when trading in your vehicle at a dealership. If you decide to trade in your vehicle, keep in mind the dealer must assume the responsibility for preparing your trade-in for resale. This process usually includes mechanical and smog inspections as well as repairs to make the car ready to sell to the next owner. This will cost the dealer money, and the dealer will figure this into the deal.

If you would prefer to sell your vehicle to a private party, check out the Blue Book® Private Party value first. This is the value you can expect to get when selling the vehicle to another consumer. In this case, you are solely responsible for preparing your vehicle for sale as well as setting and negotiating a fair price. Read more on trading in or selling yourself in Step 8.

Loan Amount
To discover the amount you need to borrow, calculate the monthly payment you can afford via our payment calculator. This tool factors the interest rate and the term of your loan. Now add your available cash with the loan amount and you'll begin to arrive at a price that works for you. Also, check for any customer or dealer incentives that may be available on your new vehicle, adding to your available cash amount. Remember, you still need to add state tax, license and fees, which vary by state and can be obtained through your local DMV.

New Car Pricing
The best news is that new car pricing is now easily accessible online. Kelley Blue Book's kbb.com features three types of new car pricing:

• Invoice Price
  The new car pricing report details the invoice price on each trim level. Dealer Invoice is the dealer's cost for the vehicle only and doesn't include any of the dealer's costs for advertising, selling, preparing, displaying or financing the vehicle.
• MSRP Price
  The MSRP is the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price, also known as the "sticker price." This price is required by law to be posted on every new vehicle and is usually -- but not always -- the highest market price. The exceptions occur when certain vehicles are in high demand or have low availability.
• Fair Purchase Price Range
  Also, check out an available price called Fair Purchase Price. Updated weekly, the experts at Kelley Blue Book have developed the most accurate pricing guidelines for new-car buyers based on purchase data collected across the country.

In addition, incentives may be available on the car of your choice and will bring down the overall price. Current incentives information is easily accessible on kbb.com as well. Read more on new vehicle pricing in Step 5.

Your decision to stick to a budget will help provide peace-of-mind, both in the car-buying process and in the future. And remember, you're paying more than a dollar for every dollar you borrow, so making a substantial down payment toward the purchase price makes long-term sense. With these principles in place, you should be able to begin in-depth research on your new, shorter list of cars.

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