How To Replace 2014/15 Outside Mirror Shells

How To Replace 2014/15 Outside Mirror Shells On A 2014-15 Honda Accord

Replacing The Shell On A 2014-15 Honda Accord


I had broken the front part of the shell on my new 2015 Accord passenger side mirror backing out of the garage. It may as well have been a side swipe or vandals, either way it needed to be repaired. Going to the dealer was out of the question due to cost.

First move the mirror glass all the way into the up position. Honda did not leave any room to work here, things are really tight. It’s also dark in there behind the mirror so it’s hard to see. I used a small piece of paint stirring stick to help lever the bottom corners of the mirror up so I could get a long small sized flat blade screw driver in behind the mirror.

What you need to do is, get the blade of the screw driver into the little slots and twist, the bottom of the glass should unlock allowing you to lift the mirror glass off.

There are two leads attached to the mirror for the defrost feature. DO NOT Pull the wires!! There is a small tab on the clip holding the wires onto the mirror. Just like any other electrical connector on a car. Push the little tab then while holding the bottom of the connector and mirror gently pull the wire off.

Now you can get to the tabs, clips and screws to disassemble the mirror. You will need the flat blade screw driver and a Torx screw driver.

To remove the front of the shell you’ll need to remove two Torx Screws on the right side and gently pry up on the 3 tabs along the top, and Unlock the main tabs holding the front shell on. One of the main tabs is seen to the left of the motor assembly and the other is at about the 4 o’clock position. These are difficult to unlatch, be sure to remove the screws first then undo the three tabs along the top before unlocking the main tabs.

Lift the front half of the shell up and off exposing the rest of the core with the motor attached. Disconnect the lane change camera lead. The motor is held in place by three Torx screws and two clips.

Remove the three Torx Screws, and gently pry the tabs to release the motor.

At this point there are three screws and a locking tab left to be able to remove the rear cover.

When you have the screws out and the locking tab unhooked, you can pull the rear half of the shell off. Unplug the wire harness from the turn signal assembly. The shell will have the turn signal piece mounted inside so you’ll need to pull two more screws to remove it.

This completes the dis-assembly of the mirror. You can now replace one or both shells or the camera or turn signal assembly. There is a small cover on the bottom . There is no need to remove this cover. You must have the mirror off the car to slide it out, DO NOT attempt to pry it off.

There is also a small trap door on the bottom of the front shell half, this also does not come off.

Now what you have as a pile of parts to work with plus your shell halves.

To reassemble, start by installing the turn signal light assembly. Align the locating pin into its hole and the assembly should slip down into the locators mounded into the shell.

At this time only install TWO screws!

Now you can attach the rear shell to the motor mount assembly. First, make the harness connection to the turn signal assembly.

Next you will need to align the locking clip to its hole in the motor base assembly.

At this time install two more screws only. One on the far left top and one at the bottom just below the motor mounting area next to the turn signal light assembly locating pin.

Now you can mount the motor assembly. There are two tabs and three screws that hold it on. The locking tabs are on the motor assembly.

Clip the motor assembly into the slots and secure with three screws.

This is all we can do with the rear shell right now. Go to your front shell, and install the camera with the two screws and secure the lead into the tabs along the edge.

Connect the cameras wire lead to the harness in the rear shell. Tuck the harness under the hooks molded into the rear shell.

Next mount the front half of the shell. Align the two large tabs with their respective holes in the main frame assembly.

Note the upper tabs are aligned with their small hooks inside the rear shell, and the two main locking hooks are aligned in their slots. Press the front half into the rear half making sure the two large locking tabs click and the three small tabs along the top lock into place.

Install the last two screws on the right side.

Almost done. Lay the mirror glass face down.

Carefully connect the two defrost wire leads until they snap into place.

Position the mirror over the motor and push it until it snaps on. 

When timing Belt shoul I replace

How often should I replace my timing belt?
The schedule for replacing a timing belt varies by manufacturer, with some saying it should be every 60,000 miles and others 100,000 miles or more. Changing the timing belt requires removing many other parts, adding to labor costs. If the timing belt drives the water pump, many mechanics recommend replacing the pump at the same time.

How do I know it's time to replace my timing belt?
A loose or worn belt will cause ticking or rattling noises, poor engine performance and overheating, usually triggering the check engine light. If the timing belt breaks, the engine can't run -- and on some engines that break can cause internal damage. Most engines have timing chains, which typically don't require replacing.

Why do I need to change my timing belt?
It's not a question of why, but a question of how often, based on the recommendations of the vehicle manufacturer or a mechanic who finds the belt is stretched or damaged. See above for mileage recommendations, but remember: If it's broken, you're engine simply won't work.

Auto Trans Fluid & Filter Replacement DIY instructions

Auto Trans Fluid & Filter Replacement DIY instructions

This first section answers some FAQs and gives some background to the fluid and replacement procedures, the second covers tools and materials, the third & fourth involves the trans fluid, and the fifth filter replacement.

General Info & Details:

how do I check the fluid level? Check the level with the fluid hot. Not just "drive around the block warm," you want to drive at least 5-10miles/15 minutes or so. The vehicle should be parked in a level spot. With the motor still running, slowly run the gear selector up and down thru all the gear positions. Return it it park and shut the motor off. Pull the dipstick immediatly, wipe it off and reinsert it. Pull it out and look at the level. It should be near the top of the range. Check the fluid for "condition" also....you want it to be a nice bright red color and not smell burnt. When reinstalling the dipstick be sure to position the handle facing towards the breather pipe next to the dipstick hole.

when should the fluid be changed? According to my owners manual, every 120k miles or so. I think it may have been reduced to 90k on some newer model. It is rather vague about changing it based on “condition.” Either way, this is not often enough IMHO. I suggest every 60k, or even sooner if you tow often or the vehicle gets used hard. I’ve been doing mine about every 20k miles since it reached 30k.

If your fluid looks dirty, isn’t a nice red/dark red color, or smells burnt, it needs to be changed.

When the fluid is drained, about 60% of it stays in the trans/torque converter. More frequent changes ensure there is plenty of good fluid in your transmission.

what about “flushing” the transmission? Be careful, the term often means that a “power flush” is performed and may include chemicals not normally found in Honda trans fluid. Honda says do not do this. I agree, and so do many others.
If by “flushing” you/they mean draining the fluid, refilling, operating the car a bit, and then repeating the drain & fill process several times, then it is a perfectly acceptable way of replacing the fluid.

where is the filter? The dealer says it doesn’t have one? It has an inline filter located low and just in front of the radiator. Honda says replacement is only necessary if the transmission is rebuilt or replaced. I like to replace it every other fluid change, but I’m sure every 60k miles is plenty.

what kind of fluid do I need? Can I use synthetic? Honda recommends replacement with Honda ATF-Z1 only. I personally don’t recommend anything else, but some claim good results (or bad results!) with aftermarket fluids. Use the search feature and your best judgments and please don’t clog this DIY thread up with fluid, Amsoil, etc discussion.

The official Honda specified fluid capacities are:
4wd - 3.3 quarts at change, and holds 7.6qt overall
2wd - 3.4qt at change, and holds 7.2qt overall

what about drain plug torque specifications? The drain plug is M18x1.5 pitch and should be torqued to 36lb-ft (49N-m). It uses a special crush washer.

I overheated the trans and now the fluid smells bad, what should I do? Change it. Do a full “flush,” drain & fill and repeat 3 times. It may save it, or at least prolong replacement.

What about a transmission cooler? The Element has one built into the radiator. It should be flushed (or replaced) whenever the trans is replaced or rebuilt to avoid contaminating the new trans. An auxilary tran cooler is a good idea for anyone that does serious towing. Do a search and/or check the towing section of the EOC for more information. Most install "inline," much like the filter.

How to Replace fuel pump

Replacing Fuel Pump
WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable. don't smoke when performing on the fuel system, and keep any sparks or alternative sources of ignition faraway from the vehicle and fuel tank. don't use an incandescent bother light-weight close to the fuel tank because the hot surface of the sunshine bulb will ignite any fuel that may spill or splash on it. Fuel vapors are heavier than air and might additionally travel an extended distance along a garage floor. The fumes will be ignited by a heater, pilot light-weight, electrical motor or alternative supply of ignition far away. even be attentive to the very fact that static discharges also can ignite fuel. Proceed with caution.

The electric fuel tank on most vehicles with electronic fuel injection is found within the fuel tank. If there's no access panel below the rear seat or within the trunk of the vehicle, it means that you may ought to lower the fuel tank from the vehicle to switch the fuel pump. this will be a troublesome job, thus you will need to require your vehicle to a service facility for repairs instead of attempting to try and do it yourself.

Before you move to all the work of removing the fuel tank, double-check below the rear seat and within the floor of the trunk for an access panel to the fuel tank. If the vehicle has one, you'll be able to amendment the fuel pump while not dropping the tank. simply skip future few steps and undo the plate the holds the fuel pump within the tank.

Before unbolting the straps that secure the fuel tank in place, take away the maximum amount fuel as potential from the tank. this can lighten the tank significantly and build it abundant easier to handle, lower and raise back to place. Some gas tanks have a drain plug within the bottom, however most don't thus might} ought to use a hand siphon pump to empty the tank (do NOT use an electrical drill powered pump because the sparks may ignite the fuel!). Insert the water the filler neck and use the hand pump to start out the siphon action. don't suck on the hose to start out a siphon as a result of gasoline is toxic and therefore the fumes will damage your lungs. Drain the fuel into an approved container (a metal or plastic gas will, NEVER an open bucket), and seal the container once all the fuel has been drained from the tank. don't leave open containers of gasoline sitting around.

Make sure the parking brake is about, the transmission or transaxle is in park, and therefore the front wheels are chocked with blocks or bricks that the vehicle cannot roll after you raise it. The vehicle ought to even be parked on a level surface.

Raise the rear of the vehicle as required with a jack, and support the vehicle with a minimum of 2 jack stands (make positive the stands have the correct weight rating to handle the burden of the vehicle). NEVER crawl below a vehicle that's solely supported by a jack.
Disconnect the filler neck from the fuel tank by loosening or removing the clamp that holds the hose on the tank.

Remove either the front 2 bolts or the rear 2 bolts that secure the fuel tank straps to the vehicle. Then gently lower one finish of the tank. this can enable you to achieve the wiring connections, fuel line and vent hoses on prime of the tank. Disconnect the wires and hoses before removing the 2 remaining bolts that hold the opposite finish of the straps. The tank will currently be lowered from the vehicle.

remove fuel pump from tank
Once the tank is sitting on the bottom, you'll be able to undo the plate on the highest of the tank the holds the fuel pump in place. The plate might have a metal ring that has got to be rotated counterclockwise to get rid of the ring. Or, the plate is also held in place with screws or bolts. Once this plate has been loosened, the plate, fuel pump and sending unit will be fastidiously pulled out of the tank.

Pump and Tank Inspection
Clues on why the pump failed is also found by examining the filter screen on the pump inlet, and peering into the tank itself. If the filter screen is clogged with dirt or rust, the fuel tank can in all probability ought to be cleaned or replaced. Dirt will be removed by steam cleaning or pressure cleaning the within of the tank and permitting it to dry. If the fuel that was drained from the tank is dirty, it ought to be disposed of or run through a low filter before it's reused. If the tank is steel and it's rusty within, you must replace it with a brand new one. The gas tank ought to even be replaced if it's leaking.

new fuel tank
When you install the pump within the tank, place a brand new filter screen on the pump (a new screen typically comes with the pump). a brand new gasket or seal ought to even be put in on the highest plate to stop leaks. If the fuel line or vent hoses are recent and cracked, they must get replaced additionally.

fuel pump inlet filter
Raise the tank high enough that the fuel pump wires, fuel line and vent hoses will be reconnected, then end raising it and install the support straps to carry the tank in place.
Reconnect the fuel filler tube, then add fuel to the tank and check for leaks. The tank ought to be a minimum of 1/4 full to supply enough fuel for correct fuel pump lubrication and cooling.

Replacing the fuel filter at now is additionally suggested.

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