diy

DIY: Rim's Wrap with Stickers

I love those rims like Volk Rays TE37 especially the Time Attack version. But ugh, the price is too high for me, around 20mil IDR. I almost buy their replicas, for not so expensive price about 3.6 - 3.8mil IDR. But hey! It will stretch my OEM tire which has max width 6.5 inch. The rims need 7 inch so my tires will be like donuts: thinner and pretty not save for a log ride, especially for touring. I don't have any budget to buy matching tires, so for now: bye bye TE37... sigh...

Now what? To have nice black rims I have another two options: paint them or wrap them with stickers. But for painting their original coating need to be removed! Oh no! they're slighty brand new rims! So, stickers! So here I have 5 rims shown like this:

My tools & materials, and the finished result. It's not my best wrap, but I manage to DIY better on the next rims. In fact, I wreck this version and re-wrap it again using my latest technique.

First, I must know how well the sticker will bend following the rim's curves. So I've learned enough by disposing one set of stickers for test trial. What I've learned is the sticker will be splitted if I force it to follow valley curve, even it preheated with hot gun. So I have to put more layers on those kind of areas. I also put another layer on narrow holes because the remaining 'flaps' won't cover the whole surfaces (right pic). Here we go:

After layering complete, I put a sheet sticker, large enough to cover the whole rim. Then I did the exact same things like the video in Youtube HERE, my initial inspiration. I think video speaks louder than words... Hehehe... Those guys are wrapping a descent rim so the sticker won't split much (but you'll see them plaster it here & there to wrap uncovered areas).

Auto Trans Fluid & Filter Replacement DIY instructions

This first section answers some FAQs and gives some background to the fluid and replacement procedures, the second covers tools and materials, the third & fourth involves the trans fluid, and the fifth filter replacement.

General Info & Details:

how do I check the fluid level? Check the level with the fluid hot. Not just "drive around the block warm," you want to drive at least 5-10miles/15 minutes or so. The vehicle should be parked in a level spot. With the motor still running, slowly run the gear selector up and down thru all the gear positions. Return it it park and shut the motor off. Pull the dipstick immediatly, wipe it off and reinsert it. Pull it out and look at the level. It should be near the top of the range. Check the fluid for "condition" also....you want it to be a nice bright red color and not smell burnt. When reinstalling the dipstick be sure to position the handle facing towards the breather pipe next to the dipstick hole.

when should the fluid be changed? According to my owners manual, every 120k miles or so. I think it may have been reduced to 90k on some newer model. It is rather vague about changing it based on “condition.” Either way, this is not often enough IMHO. I suggest every 60k, or even sooner if you tow often or the vehicle gets used hard. I’ve been doing mine about every 20k miles since it reached 30k.

If your fluid looks dirty, isn’t a nice red/dark red color, or smells burnt, it needs to be changed.

When the fluid is drained, about 60% of it stays in the trans/torque converter. More frequent changes ensure there is plenty of good fluid in your transmission.

what about “flushing” the transmission? Be careful, the term often means that a “power flush” is performed and may include chemicals not normally found in Honda trans fluid. Honda says do not do this. I agree, and so do many others.
If by “flushing” you/they mean draining the fluid, refilling, operating the car a bit, and then repeating the drain & fill process several times, then it is a perfectly acceptable way of replacing the fluid.

where is the filter? The dealer says it doesn’t have one? It has an inline filter located low and just in front of the radiator. Honda says replacement is only necessary if the transmission is rebuilt or replaced. I like to replace it every other fluid change, but I’m sure every 60k miles is plenty.

what kind of fluid do I need? Can I use synthetic? Honda recommends replacement with Honda ATF-Z1 only. I personally don’t recommend anything else, but some claim good results (or bad results!) with aftermarket fluids. Use the search feature and your best judgments and please don’t clog this DIY thread up with fluid, Amsoil, etc discussion.

The official Honda specified fluid capacities are:
4wd - 3.3 quarts at change, and holds 7.6qt overall
2wd - 3.4qt at change, and holds 7.2qt overall

what about drain plug torque specifications? The drain plug is M18x1.5 pitch and should be torqued to 36lb-ft (49N-m). It uses a special crush washer.

I overheated the trans and now the fluid smells bad, what should I do? Change it. Do a full “flush,” drain & fill and repeat 3 times. It may save it, or at least prolong replacement.

What about a transmission cooler? The Element has one built into the radiator. It should be flushed (or replaced) whenever the trans is replaced or rebuilt to avoid contaminating the new trans. An auxilary tran cooler is a good idea for anyone that does serious towing. Do a search and/or check the towing section of the EOC for more information. Most install "inline," much like the filter.