Adjusting your idle speed Honda Itegra (Gen3)

Adjusting your idle speed Honda Itegra (Gen3) 


The idle is adjusted by a screw on the throttle body, but it requires a few steps to adjust the idle properly. 

First warm up your car to its normal operating temperature, at this point it should be idling at its normal 

spot. Pop your hood and located the idle adjustment screw

.


In this picture the screw is highlighted in yellow and I am pointing to it. This is on the side of the throttle body, right above where the air intake tube connects. 
If your idle has never been adjusted, it is possible that the screw will be covered up with some light rubber substance from the factory. Simply scrape it out with a thin screwdriver or a small knife. Before you start adjusting that screw, you need to disconnect the Idle Air Adjustment valve (IAC). The idle air adjustment valve lets in more air depending on what the sensors tell it, in order to help maintain a constant idle and prevent possible stalling. We want to disconnect it so that we can adjust the idle itself with out any interference. 

The valve is located behind the throttle body, facing the firewall.This is a picture taking looking directly down on the top of the intake manifold

 

There is an electronic connector on the bottom of the IAC valve, that you need to disconnect. While the car is running, Simply push down on the tab, and pull the connector downward and off of the valve. Be careful not to touch anything in the engine bay that could be hot, you could burn yourself. 

 

At this point the idle should drop at least 100rpm. If you don't notice a difference in idle, you may have a bad IAC and should replace it. 
Once the IAC has been disconnected you can turn the screw to adjust the idle. Turning the screw towards the firewall, or loosening the screw, will increase the idle speed. Turning the screw away from the firewall, or tightening the screw, will decrease the idle. 

You want the idle to sit right at 650rpm on the tach. Right between the 600 and 700 marks shown below. 


 

One you have achieved this, turn off the engine. Plug the IAC clip back in, and reset the ECU.

After you have let your ECU adapt, you should idle steady at 750 rpm +/- 50 when warm.

source integra.net

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting Honda Integra

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting Honda Integra 

Tools required

- Phillips Screwdriver
- Digital Multi-Meter
- 12-Volt Light Probe
- A friend

Start by removing the 3 rotor cap screws:



Next, we remove the rotor. Do this by first removing the Phillips screw, then wedge a couple of flathead screwdrivers behind and pull.

  

Next, pull off the dust shield to expose the coil and ICM.






 Test the primary coil by first setting the multi-meter to ohms:



Then measure the resistance between the two screw terminals:



The resistance should fall between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms for the primary coil.

Next is to measure the secondary coil resistance:

 
The resistance should fall between 12.8K and 19.2K ohms for the secondary coil. 
Next we will test the input signal to the ICM

To do this, first PUT THE COIL BACK IN and attach the wires to the screw terminals, then disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU spade connectors from the ICM.



Set the multi-meter to Volts DC (VDC)



Now, turn on the ignition to position 2 (don’t start the car) and measure the following:
- Between BLK/YEL and GND, there should be +12V
- Between WHT/BLU and GND, there should be +12V

  

Finally we test the ICM (Igniter module).

Before testing, reconnect the wires to the ICM that you removed while testing the input signal. 
To test the ICM, take the 12V light probe and attach the alligator clip to the positive battery terminal:



Now, put the probe tip into the negative coil screw and have a friend crank the engine:



Removing the Coil and ICM



 

If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.

source : integra.net

Clean an Idle Air Control Valve ( IACV ) in a Honda Accord

Clean an Idle Air Control Valve in a Honda Accord



Idle air control valve (IACV), Car's idle depending on the amount of air that is entering the engine. The car's computer takes readings of idle control adjustments and regulates the car's rpm accordingly. Therefore, if the idle air control valve is not functioning properly, you will notice that your car is revving or idling irregularly. A high, fluctuating or erratic idle, or an idle that stalls out sporadically, is a sign that you may need to clean the idle air control valve. You do not need to be a mechanic in order to clean the IACV, but you will need some familiarity with the car parts under your hood. If you drive a Honda accord and your idle control is acting up, you will find that the IACV is readily accessible for ease of maintenance.

The step to clean idle air control valve are

Purchase a new IACV gasket. You will need to replace the old one on your Honda IACV before returning it back to its place under the hood.

Locate the IACV. You will find it at the back center of the under hood area, near the throttle body (TB) and mounted on the rear of the intake manifold (IM). You will have to remove the TB intake hose in order to gain access to area of the IM that is connected to the IACV.

Remove the Honda idle air control valve.
Unscrew the bolts attaching the IACV to the intake manifold. You will have to feel around for the lower bolt, which will be just out of plain sight.
Pull out the gray plug from the right side of the Honda IACV.
Remove the blue plug from the throttle body.
Locate the coolant hose that attaches the IACV to the TB.
Use needle-nose pliers to pull back the clamp that holds the coolant hose in place and then pull the hose out. This will provide enough slack to pull the Honda idle air control valve to the front so you can completely remove it.
Detach the last 2 hoses from the IACV in order to free it for cleaning.

Remove the gasket from the Honda IACV and throw it away.

Examine the valve so as to identify the carbon build up that must be cleaned out. Note the areas with the heaviest concentration of filth, as you will need to pay special attention to them during the cleaning.

Clean the Honda idle air control valve. Spray the valve with the carb cleaner, being sure to thoroughly saturate the heavy buildup.

Allow the IACV to dry completely.

Put the new gasket in its place.

Reinstall the IACV going backwards through the uninstall process and Adjust the idle control to its ideal setting.

Common Problem on 2001 Honda CRV

Common Problem on 2001 Honda CRV


Owner 2001 Honda CRV with this problem you have done or tried to do to repair your car?
Also if you got it repaired how many different conclusion to this problem have you had. I need as much information as possible. I am trying to fight American Honda to acknowledge this "known problem" and maybe help others with it as well.

I own a 2001 Honda CRV and I have had service and/or requested service for this stalling, rough idle, and cold start problem atleast 7 times. This last time I took it in the dealership told me I have low compression in cylinder #3. They said they had to send it to the their machine shop.

Just to start it would cost me $1000 and then it was going to be more when they verified the problem. They thought it was a burnt valve and the heads would have to be replaced.
I was sickened when I heard this. Especially since I have been having this same issue since I bought the car, and everytime I took it in they said don't worry just have a full tune up done for $600 and it will go away. And it did for a while til the next $600 tune up came and another.
Now, they can't cover up their valve problem anymore cause it's shot. After paying all that money all ready I have to pay well over $1000 more because it wasn't addressed when it started at 16,000 miles.

I just recently found a Technical service Bulletin regarding this exact problem. It is TSB #03038. So, I decided to call American Honda Manufacturer and I have never had so much run around in my life, but I knew that it was going to be a fight. The full TSB states at the end Valve recedes into head. REPLACE cylinder heads. I have a case open and I will know more details in a day or two. I have found 3 different people state that they got their repair done under a goodwill warranty and paid nothing.


Anybody with this problem please let me know about it. I want all the ammo I can fire at them because I know there are a lot of us out there with this problem. I will keep everyone updated and maybe it will lead to a fix for your car as well.

How To Replace 2014/15 Outside Mirror Shells

How To Replace 2014/15 Outside Mirror Shells On A 2014-15 Honda Accord

Replacing The Shell On A 2014-15 Honda Accord


I had broken the front part of the shell on my new 2015 Accord passenger side mirror backing out of the garage. It may as well have been a side swipe or vandals, either way it needed to be repaired. Going to the dealer was out of the question due to cost.

First move the mirror glass all the way into the up position. Honda did not leave any room to work here, things are really tight. It’s also dark in there behind the mirror so it’s hard to see. I used a small piece of paint stirring stick to help lever the bottom corners of the mirror up so I could get a long small sized flat blade screw driver in behind the mirror.

What you need to do is, get the blade of the screw driver into the little slots and twist, the bottom of the glass should unlock allowing you to lift the mirror glass off.

There are two leads attached to the mirror for the defrost feature. DO NOT Pull the wires!! There is a small tab on the clip holding the wires onto the mirror. Just like any other electrical connector on a car. Push the little tab then while holding the bottom of the connector and mirror gently pull the wire off.

Now you can get to the tabs, clips and screws to disassemble the mirror. You will need the flat blade screw driver and a Torx screw driver.

To remove the front of the shell you’ll need to remove two Torx Screws on the right side and gently pry up on the 3 tabs along the top, and Unlock the main tabs holding the front shell on. One of the main tabs is seen to the left of the motor assembly and the other is at about the 4 o’clock position. These are difficult to unlatch, be sure to remove the screws first then undo the three tabs along the top before unlocking the main tabs.

Lift the front half of the shell up and off exposing the rest of the core with the motor attached. Disconnect the lane change camera lead. The motor is held in place by three Torx screws and two clips.

Remove the three Torx Screws, and gently pry the tabs to release the motor.

At this point there are three screws and a locking tab left to be able to remove the rear cover.

When you have the screws out and the locking tab unhooked, you can pull the rear half of the shell off. Unplug the wire harness from the turn signal assembly. The shell will have the turn signal piece mounted inside so you’ll need to pull two more screws to remove it.

This completes the dis-assembly of the mirror. You can now replace one or both shells or the camera or turn signal assembly. There is a small cover on the bottom . There is no need to remove this cover. You must have the mirror off the car to slide it out, DO NOT attempt to pry it off.

There is also a small trap door on the bottom of the front shell half, this also does not come off.

Now what you have as a pile of parts to work with plus your shell halves.

To reassemble, start by installing the turn signal light assembly. Align the locating pin into its hole and the assembly should slip down into the locators mounded into the shell.

At this time only install TWO screws!

Now you can attach the rear shell to the motor mount assembly. First, make the harness connection to the turn signal assembly.

Next you will need to align the locking clip to its hole in the motor base assembly.

At this time install two more screws only. One on the far left top and one at the bottom just below the motor mounting area next to the turn signal light assembly locating pin.

Now you can mount the motor assembly. There are two tabs and three screws that hold it on. The locking tabs are on the motor assembly.

Clip the motor assembly into the slots and secure with three screws.

This is all we can do with the rear shell right now. Go to your front shell, and install the camera with the two screws and secure the lead into the tabs along the edge.

Connect the cameras wire lead to the harness in the rear shell. Tuck the harness under the hooks molded into the rear shell.

Next mount the front half of the shell. Align the two large tabs with their respective holes in the main frame assembly.

Note the upper tabs are aligned with their small hooks inside the rear shell, and the two main locking hooks are aligned in their slots. Press the front half into the rear half making sure the two large locking tabs click and the three small tabs along the top lock into place.

Install the last two screws on the right side.

Almost done. Lay the mirror glass face down.

Carefully connect the two defrost wire leads until they snap into place.

Position the mirror over the motor and push it until it snaps on. 

How to Replacing the drive belt Honda Element

How to Replacing the drive belt Honda Element

The procedure is fairly straight forward:

Need:

• Replacement belt P/N 38920-PZD-A01
• Serpentine Belt Removal Tool (with adjustable offset) and 14mm 6 sided socket
• 10 mm open end wrench

1. Turn front wheels hard right (or remove RF wheel) and remove the plastic access panel to exposed the main crank pulley
2. Using a 10mm wrench loosen (but don’t completely remove) the bolt holding the power steering line clamp on the fender wall. Moving the clamp and steel tubing around later on will help with a tight clearance when attaching the tensioner tool to the pulley bolt.
3. Assemble the tensioner tool with an angle (using the extension) and shallow (again, for clearance issues) 14mm six sided socket – see picture below

Honda Element Door panel and lock removal DIY

Honda Element Door panel and lock removal DIY

This is done on my '05 with power windows and locks. I'm pretty sure they're all set up this way but the SC might be different.



Remove the 2 screw covers and the speaker grille.




Remove the 6 phillips screws. One under the armrest, two on the door handle and three on the speaker.






Push forward on the door handle to release, disconnect the door handle linkage and the power connector. Yes I'm wearing gloves... it's freaking cold today. You see how much I go through for you guys.






Remove the two trim pieces (top front and rear). The front one is removed by pulling at the top and lifting off.

The rear one is, sometimes, not so easy. It is supposed to be pried off from the bottom corner but it uses a metal snap-in that can be pretty tight. Once that clip is loose it lifts off to the front.

Removing the "nose" or front bumper cover Honda Element

Removing the "nose" or front bumper cover Honda Element

Removing the nose (front bumper/grill/etc) of an Element is fairly straightforward and simple. Follow the "official" instructions for fog light installation as provided by Honda (thanks H & A) or just figure it out as you go along.

It has been mentioned and discussed for a long time here on the EOC, but I figured ithe "project" needed its own thread.
Here are some pics and info to help guide you.

There are several pins or clips that hold the nose along the top by the radiator.

As mentioned in another thread, a paint can tool works great for this.








Leave two in place to hold the nose while you remove the rest of the fasteners.


The two "tricky" spots are mid way along the fender. Remove the screw (8mm hex tool) and then pull out on the fender a bit to slip the nose tab off the post.




Then there are four screws along the bottom (two on each side) and some more clips along the middle. The clips remove just like the top ones, the screws take a 10mm socket or wrench.



After all the clips and screws are removed simply slip the entire nose off. It takes a bit of wiggling, especially around the headlight and fender area.

Be sure to put it down on a blanket or something to prevent it from being scratched.

Download Manual Book Honda Civic

Download Manual Book Honda Civic


Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 1

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part2

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 3

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 4

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 5

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 6

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 7

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 8

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 9

Download Manual Book Honda Civic part 10

Honda Accord 1986 Manual Book Download

Honda Accord 1986 Manual Book Download 

Download


source : Accord Manual

Car ECU Reseting

English: An electronic control unit (ECU) from a 1990 Geo Storm GSi. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The ECU of your car is like its brain. For your car to deliver it's best performance you have got to stay it during a work condition the least bit times.

The following is how to reset your ECU, which all Honda technicians do prior to returning your car from the shop:

step 1: Ensure the car is at opperating tempreature (i.e., take it for a drive or let it idle for a 15 mintues).

step 2: Take the fuse for the ecu out -- on my s2000 its labeled "Backup" but do research on yours because it could be different -- wait 15 minutes.

step 3: Put the fuse back in.

step 4: turn the car on. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING. GIVE IT NO GAS. let the car idle for roughly 15 minutes, or until the car is idling smooth at lower rpm's.

step 5: Turn the ignition off. ONCE AGAIN, DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE KEY. Immediately turn the ignition back on after you have gone to full off. this will store the new settings your ecu has made.

These steps will properly reset your ecu. After they are accomplished go do whatever, the new settings have been stored.



 

Related articles

• Car ECU Reseting

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