My Ignition System wont Work
There are three, main, items that will keep the engine from getting a spark. A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter and a bad distributor.
To check the ignition coil, measure the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the -, white/blue wire, terminal of the coil. The resistance should be about 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70° F. Then check the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the coil wire terminal. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F. It can also be bench tested out of the car.
As for the igniter, if the tachometer is working, then the igniter is okay. Here is the procedure for checking the igniter.
- Remove the distributor cap, the rotor and the leak cover.
- Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter unit.
- Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 4.
- Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 5.
- Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.
- Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit.
- If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit.
There are three, main, items that will keep the engine from getting a spark. A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter and a bad distributor.
To check the ignition coil, measure the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the -, white/blue wire, terminal of the coil. The resistance should be about 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70° F. Then check the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the coil wire terminal. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F. It can also be bench tested out of the car.
As for the igniter, if the tachometer is working, then the igniter is okay. Here is the procedure for checking the igniter.
- Remove the distributor cap, the rotor and the leak cover.
- Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter unit.
- Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 4.
- Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 5.
- Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.
- Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit.
- If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit.
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