Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting Honda Integra
Tools required
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Digital Multi-Meter
- 12-Volt Light Probe
- A friend
Start by removing the 3 rotor cap screws:
Next, we remove the rotor. Do this by first removing the Phillips screw, then wedge a couple of flathead screwdrivers behind and pull.
Next, pull off the dust shield to expose the coil and ICM.
Test the primary coil by first setting the multi-meter to ohms:
Then measure the resistance between the two screw terminals:
The resistance should fall between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms for the primary coil.
Next is to measure the secondary coil resistance:
The resistance should fall between 12.8K and 19.2K ohms for the secondary coil.
Next we will test the input signal to the ICM
To do this, first PUT THE COIL BACK IN and attach the wires to the screw terminals, then disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU spade connectors from the ICM.
Set the multi-meter to Volts DC (VDC)
Now, turn on the ignition to position 2 (don’t start the car) and measure the following:
- Between BLK/YEL and GND, there should be +12V
- Between WHT/BLU and GND, there should be +12V
Finally we test the ICM (Igniter module).
Before testing, reconnect the wires to the ICM that you removed while testing the input signal.
To test the ICM, take the 12V light probe and attach the alligator clip to the positive battery terminal:
Now, put the probe tip into the negative coil screw and have a friend crank the engine:
Removing the Coil and ICM
If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
source : integra.net
Tools required
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Digital Multi-Meter
- 12-Volt Light Probe
- A friend
Start by removing the 3 rotor cap screws:
Next, we remove the rotor. Do this by first removing the Phillips screw, then wedge a couple of flathead screwdrivers behind and pull.
Next, pull off the dust shield to expose the coil and ICM.
Test the primary coil by first setting the multi-meter to ohms:
Then measure the resistance between the two screw terminals:
The resistance should fall between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms for the primary coil.
Next is to measure the secondary coil resistance:
The resistance should fall between 12.8K and 19.2K ohms for the secondary coil.
Next we will test the input signal to the ICM
To do this, first PUT THE COIL BACK IN and attach the wires to the screw terminals, then disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU spade connectors from the ICM.
Set the multi-meter to Volts DC (VDC)
Now, turn on the ignition to position 2 (don’t start the car) and measure the following:
- Between BLK/YEL and GND, there should be +12V
- Between WHT/BLU and GND, there should be +12V
Finally we test the ICM (Igniter module).
Before testing, reconnect the wires to the ICM that you removed while testing the input signal.
To test the ICM, take the 12V light probe and attach the alligator clip to the positive battery terminal:
Now, put the probe tip into the negative coil screw and have a friend crank the engine:
Removing the Coil and ICM
If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
source : integra.net
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