My Ignition System wont Work

My Ignition System wont Work

There are three, main, items that will keep the engine from getting a spark. A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter and a bad distributor.

To check the ignition coil, measure the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the -, white/blue wire, terminal of the coil. The resistance should be about 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70° F. Then check the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the coil wire terminal. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F. It can also be bench tested out of the car.

As for the igniter, if the tachometer is working, then the igniter is okay. Here is the procedure for checking the igniter.

- Remove the distributor cap, the rotor and the leak cover.

- Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter unit.

- Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 4.

- Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 5.

- Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.

- Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit.

- If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit.

Car Won't Start

Car Won't Start

Most people don’t keep a set of mechanic’s tools in their trunk. So when you get stranded with a dead engine, you feel pretty helpless. But don’t give up right away. We’ve compiled a list of tricks you can try, and none of them require tools. They’re arranged by symptom, and you’ve got nothing to lose by trying them. Of course, they won’t fix the root problem, but one of them just might get the engine started so you can head to the nearest mechanic to have the problem fixed.

Symptom: Starter goes click

This can be caused by a weak battery, dirty battery terminals, a worn starter motor or a stuck solenoid. Here are a few tricks to try:

Cycle the key
Turn on the dome light and watch it while you try to start the engine. If the light goes out, it’s a sign the battery is really weak—almost dead. To heat up the battery, terminals and starter, try the “key cycling” trick (photo 1). But if the dome light stayed bright when you turned the key, move on to the next trick.

Tap on the battery terminals
There’s no way to clean corroded battery terminals when you’re stranded without tools. But you can try to move or at least jar the terminals enough to make better contact (photo 2).

Smack the starter
If you have access to the starter motor, try smacking it with the tire iron from your car jack. Sometimes, the electrical contacts get stuck and can be freed by tapping on them.


Symptom: No click when you turn the key

Shift the Shifter
With your foot on the brake, move the shift lever to the neutral position and try starting the engine. If that doesn’t work, move it back to “Park” and try it again. Moving the shifter sometimes reestablishes electrical contact inside the transmission range selector (also known as the neutral safety switch).

Symptom: Engine cranks but won't fire up

Swap relays
With the radio off, turn the key to the “Run” position and listen for a two-second buzzing sound. That’s the fuel pump priming the injection system. If you don’t hear any sound, the fuel pump relay may be bad or the pump may be on its last legs. First, find the location of the fuel pump relay in your owner’s manual or on the legend of the under-hood fuse box cover. Then locate another relay with the same part number and swap it with the fuel pump (photo 3). Try starting the engine afterward. If it still won’t fire, beat on the fuel tank with your shoe to jar the fuel pump motor (photo 4).

Unflood a flooded engine
If you smell gas, the engine is flooded. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank the engine.

Trick the computer

A vacuum leak or funky temperature sensor can result in an air/ fuel mixture that’s too lean to start a cold engine. If you’ve tried all the other tricks shown here and it still won’t start, press the accelerator halfway and try to start the engine. That’ll tell the computer to add more fuel.

Car engine won't start in the morning

My Engine (Photo credit: Timitrius)

Your Engine car may not start for a number of reasons. The following list outlines the most common circumstances and tells you what action you can take to try to remedy each situation:

The Engine car is silent when you turn the key in the ignition. Check the battery terminal cable connections. (See How to Check Your Car Battery.) If they look very corroded, force the point of a screwdriver (with an insulated or wooden handle) between the connector and the terminal post and twist it to lodge it firmly. Then try to start the engine again. If it starts, you need to clean or replace your cables.

The Engine car makes a clicking noise but won't start. This sound usually means a dead battery. If not, check the wiring to and from the starter for a loose connection.

The car cranks over but won't start. Check the fuel supply to your engine. If that's okay, check whether the electrical spark is getting to your spark plugs.

The engine starts but dies. If your car has a carburetor, check your carburetor adjustment and your choke to see whether the choke is first closing and then opening. If you have fuel injection, you'll need professional help.

The Engine car won't start on rainy days. Check inside the distributor cap for dampness. If you find moisture, get some mechanic's solvent from your friendly service station — they use it to clean car parts — or buy an aerosol can of it at an auto supply store. To evaporate any dampness inside the distributor cap, turn the cap upside down and pour or spray some solvent into it. Swish it around and pour it out. Then dry the cap as best you can with a clean, lint-free rag and replace the cap.

Use only clean solvent; even a tiny speck of dirt can foul the points. Gasoline won't do because a spark can ignite gasoline fumes and cause an explosion or a fire.

The Engine car won't start on cold mornings. For vehicles with carburetors,check the choke. Is it closed? Does it open? If you have fuel injection, you'll need to have a professional diagnose the cold-start problems.

The engine misses while idling. Check the points (if your car has a non-electronic distributor) and the spark plugs. (How to Remove Old Spark Plugs explains getting bad spark plugs gone.) Also check the fuel pump, fuel filter, and carburetor, if you have one. (If your fuel filter’s the problem, check out How to Change Your Vehicle’s Fuel Filter.)

The engine misses or hesitates during acceleration. Check the accelerator pump in the carburetor (if equipped), the spark plugs, the distributor, and the timing.

The engine knocks or pings. Check your timing; also check the octane rating of the fuel you're using. The owner's manual can tell you whether your vehicle needs regular unleaded or premium gasoline. Check the cooling system. (which The Essentials of Checking and Maintaining Your Vehicle’s Cooling System explains) Do a compression check on the engine cylinders.

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