Car Won't Start

Car Won't Start

Most people don’t keep a set of mechanic’s tools in their trunk. So when you get stranded with a dead engine, you feel pretty helpless. But don’t give up right away. We’ve compiled a list of tricks you can try, and none of them require tools. They’re arranged by symptom, and you’ve got nothing to lose by trying them. Of course, they won’t fix the root problem, but one of them just might get the engine started so you can head to the nearest mechanic to have the problem fixed.

Symptom: Starter goes click

This can be caused by a weak battery, dirty battery terminals, a worn starter motor or a stuck solenoid. Here are a few tricks to try:

Cycle the key
Turn on the dome light and watch it while you try to start the engine. If the light goes out, it’s a sign the battery is really weak—almost dead. To heat up the battery, terminals and starter, try the “key cycling” trick (photo 1). But if the dome light stayed bright when you turned the key, move on to the next trick.

Tap on the battery terminals
There’s no way to clean corroded battery terminals when you’re stranded without tools. But you can try to move or at least jar the terminals enough to make better contact (photo 2).

Smack the starter
If you have access to the starter motor, try smacking it with the tire iron from your car jack. Sometimes, the electrical contacts get stuck and can be freed by tapping on them.


Symptom: No click when you turn the key

Shift the Shifter
With your foot on the brake, move the shift lever to the neutral position and try starting the engine. If that doesn’t work, move it back to “Park” and try it again. Moving the shifter sometimes reestablishes electrical contact inside the transmission range selector (also known as the neutral safety switch).

Symptom: Engine cranks but won't fire up

Swap relays
With the radio off, turn the key to the “Run” position and listen for a two-second buzzing sound. That’s the fuel pump priming the injection system. If you don’t hear any sound, the fuel pump relay may be bad or the pump may be on its last legs. First, find the location of the fuel pump relay in your owner’s manual or on the legend of the under-hood fuse box cover. Then locate another relay with the same part number and swap it with the fuel pump (photo 3). Try starting the engine afterward. If it still won’t fire, beat on the fuel tank with your shoe to jar the fuel pump motor (photo 4).

Unflood a flooded engine
If you smell gas, the engine is flooded. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there while you crank the engine.

Trick the computer

A vacuum leak or funky temperature sensor can result in an air/ fuel mixture that’s too lean to start a cold engine. If you’ve tried all the other tricks shown here and it still won’t start, press the accelerator halfway and try to start the engine. That’ll tell the computer to add more fuel.

Tips or Tricks for keeping your car clean?

Tips or Tricks for keeping your car clean?

1. Store them in a climate controlled garage with no direct sunlight

2. Hand wash using a clean microfibre cloth and car wash liquid (turtlewax is my current)

3. Wax with a heavy wax periodically depending on use

4. Use a duster to dust off between washings (a light cover would work too)

5. I don't use much else; no tire shine, no armorall, nothing in the interior 'cept a damp microfibre.....may look into a leather conditioner for this car.

Car Loan Tips

Car Loan Tips

Financing a new car purchase requires some research. Before venturing out to the car dealerships uninformed, let's take a look at what you will need to know about the car buying process.

First of all, about 70% of all new car purchases are financed. So unless you plan on paying cash for your new car, or you are going to apply for a car loan, chances are you will be financing your purchase.

1. Determine your financial situation
This is the first and most important step in the car buying process. You must know how much you can spend before you can determine what you can afford. You don't want to get stuck making a bloated car payment that will leave you eating bologna sandwiches for three years.

First of all, you need to have a monthly budget. This is very easy to calculate. Add up all of your fixed monthly expenses, such as your rent/mortgage, phone bill, etc. Subtract that from your net income. Then subtract your estimated extraneous expenses, such as food, gas, entertainment, whatever. The result should be an amount of money you have to play with.

From that, you need to remember that buying a car involves more than a down payment and monthly payments. In your budget you will need to include licensing, registration and other hidden costs, as well as monthly insurance costs, gas and maintenance.

Once you have all of this worked out, you should have a ballpark figure of the budgeted amount you can use for car payments. A good rule of thumb is roughly 20 percent of your net income can be used for a car payment. Once you determine that figure, stay with it.

2. Decide which car you want
Now that you have settled on a monthly allotment, now you can look at which vehicles fit into your price range.

This is really about personal choice, but a good criteria to go buy is to look at what your needs are. Do you have a family? There are plenty of affordable, safe and reliable minivans and station wagons on the market. Single and commute, or do a lot of city driving? The compact segment has a wide range of models to choose from that boast handling and superior gas mileage. Do you use your vehicle for work-related tasks, such as hauling, delivery, etc? Check out the many light and heavy-duty pickup trucks and vans. Midlife crisis? There are several convertibles and sports cars that will make you feel young again.

Also consider your wants. Compact cars get really good gas mileage and are a great if you want to save money on the increasing gas prices. Plan on taking road trips? Consider something that gets good mileage and has cargo space and lots of cup holders. Plan on going off-roading? The SUV is your best bet. Some even come with a first-aid kit!

Once you've narrowed your choices down to a couple, it's time to do some car research.

3. Do your homework
All right, Columbo. Here's where you will need to spend some time sorting through some details, but it will be worth the effort in the end. After all, the more you know about what you're buying, about whom you're buying from, and about the buying process itself, the more money you will end up saving.

There are plenty of places for you to do your car research. Check out the Internet and newspapers, contact car dealerships, credit unions and local banks to see what kind of deal you can get. Knowing what a car dealer's competition is offering can only help you out in the negotiating process.

Look at interest rates. You'll want to get the lowest possible interest rate, as it will help you pay less in the long run. Many car buyers focus on getting the lowest possible down payment. If a car dealer gives you a low down payment, the money you are saving has to be made back. Car dealers will find ways to lower your down payment, and as a result will find ways to compensate for their generosity. By deferring the down payment "savings," with interest, you'll end up paying more in the long run.

Also be aware of factory-to-dealer incentives. The secret is that the manufacturer refunds a certain percentage of the car's price to the dealer. So even if the car dealer sells you a car at the invoice price, he or she will still make money from the deal. Find out about a manufacturer's incentive percentage, as they are public information.

You should also look out for rebates. When incentives are offered, this often means the manufacturer wants to either get rid of slow-selling cars or reduce the inventory. Therefore, they may also offer the buyer a cash rebate and a low financing rate, or an option of one of the two.

4. Go to the car dealerships
Now that you have an understanding of what kind of rate you will be offered, you now want to go out to the car dealerships. You already have an idea of what kind of car you want, how much you can spend and what kind of perks you can get. Also you have an idea as to what different car dealerships are offering. This is quite a bit of information for you to carry with you into the negotiating process. But again, the more you know, the better off you'll be. But remember: Car dealers are professional negotiators and do it everyday. You are a novice and will be treated as such. The car dealers aren't going to be easy on you, nor are they going to point out all the ways you can save money. It's up to you to find all of those.


Also remember that you are in control at all times. You have the right and ability to stand up and walk out of the office at any point and the dealer will lose the sale. Don't let a car dealer intimidate you. Be relaxed and comfortable you know all the information and that you hold all the cards.

Why Does My Car Squeal When I Turn the Steering Wheel?

Why Does My Car Squeal When I Turn the Steering Wheel?

 If your car is making a squealing or squeaking sound when you turn the steering wheel, there could be any of several culprits at play.

 One common cause is low power-steering fluid. When the fluid that powers and lubricates conventional power-steering systems gets low, it can lead to a squealing noise that may sustain for as long as the steering wheel remains off-center. Checking the fluid and replacing if necessary might be enough to solve the problem. Contamination of the fluid by dirt and debris also could be at the root of the problem. A failing power-steering pump could likewise be the cause. If adding fluid doesn't solve the problem, a technician should be able to identify the cause and recommend a repair.

 A suspension or steering component that's lost lubrication also could cause a squeak or squeal when the steering wheel is in motion. Tie-rod ends, seals, ball joints and universal joints all need lubrication, and if they dry out, that could lead to noise. Again, a technician should be able to identify the problem and recommend a repair.

 We've also experienced squeaks from the steering wheel housing in new cars rubbing against interior trim — typically in hot weather when materials expand and gaps close up. In these cases, a trip to the dealer or body shop might be in order — hopefully for warranty work.
Finally, tire noise could be the cause of the squeal that you're hearing, especially if it happens only when the vehicle is driven on certain surfaces.

 If your vehicle is making a squealing sound when the steering wheel is being turned, start by checking the power-steering fluid level and replacing/adding as necessary — and if that doesn't eliminate the noise, make an appointment with a service technician.

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS 2

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS 2

FUEL / GAS

WILL HIGHER OCTANE OR PREMIUM FUEL GIVE ME BETTER GAS MILEAGE AND/OR MORE POWER?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.

BODYWORK / PAINT

KEEPING YOUR PAINT FINISH IN GOOD CONDITION

Only choose superior car detailing supplies to keep your car's interior and exterior like new. There are plenty of decent quality waxes and polishes on the market today and if the last time you waxed or polished your car was over a decade ago, things have changed considerably since then. The wax and polish compounds are far more sophisticated both in terms of protection from fading, the look of the finish, and the ease of application. For example Turtle Wax Ice gets rid of that old problem of white wax residue. Is a clean car a vanity thing? Partly, yes, but if you park under a tree where birds help repaint your car with recycled blueberries, that guck will come off a lot easier if it falls on a waxed paint job.
Tip: If you find a bird has pooped on your car, wash it off as quick as you can. There are compounds in bird waste that can damage most car paint jobs. If you leave it in the sun and the poop bakes on, you could end up with a dull spot in the paint.

ELECTRICAL

DISCONNECTING AND RECONNECTING YOUR BATTERY

If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.

CHECK YOUR BATTERY TERMINALS

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.

LIGHTS

ONE INDICATOR OR BLINKER IS FLASHING FASTER THAN THE OTHER

When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.

DON'T TOUCH THE GLASS WHEN CHANGING HEADLIGHT BULBS

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS

CAR MAINTENANCE TIPS

WHEELS AND TYRES

ROTATE YOUR TYRES!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres.  Tyre rotation.

CLEAN BRAKE DUST OFF REGULARLY

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURES

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.  Checking your tyre pressure.

CHECK YOUR TREAD DEPTH

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident.  Tread wear bars.

While lurking on the Internet and collect the best tips for you, I tried to find the best online-resource with different wheels and tires. I found CARiD website as a really good place to do shopping: 

ENGINE

CHECK YOUR BELTS

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury:  Interference engines

FUEL ECONOMY

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.  Checking your tyre pressures

CHECKING YOUR OIL LEVEL

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here Checking your oil level.

CHECKING YOUR COOLANT LEVEL

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you.  Engine cooling systems.

Body paint scratch repair

Paint since 1978 (Photo credit: dogwelder)

Whether your daily driver may be a used vehicle that came with its own set of dings and scratches, or you've got simply suffered the primary assault of an errant looking cart on a replacement auto, don't fret. Repairing minor body injury is neither a troublesome nor intimidating task. With the assistance of typical workshop tools (such as a sander and an electrical drill) along side somewhat elbow grease and a few common provides from your native auto elements search, these scratches and dings will all disappear.

The first step for any body repair method is to start out with a clean automobile, using automotive cleaning merchandise followed by an honest bug and tar remover to get rid of the layers of wax, grease, and deposits. The techniques for a body repair are additional a matter of finesse and bit than muscle. Also, take the time to browse the directions on your body repair kit (screen, putty, primer and touch-up paint) for curing and drying times. We'll begin with repairing straightforward scratches:

Simple Scratches

Using terribly fine sandpaper (one designed for wet sanding) and a water-soaked sponge, feather the perimeters of the scratch, about to vacant metal if necessary. What you are looking for may be a swish taper from the scratch to the unmarred paint. you recognize you are there after you will run your finger gently over the realm while not feeling even a trace of a position.

If the scratch is deep, you'll be able to fill it with body putty or filler. the simplest thanks to verify if body putty is needed is, again, to run your hand over the realm. Unless you have a practiced eye, simply viewing the realm is deceptive. Your fingertips and palm are your best tools. Wet-sand the putty to mix the perimeters.

Make sure the realm surrounding the injury is masked off—at least 3 inches is good—to guarantee an honest mixing of the repair coat. Apply the primer and wet-sand the realm with further fine sandpaper and your wet sponge for the simplest bonding of the ultimate paint.

Auto makers build it straightforward to match the first paint with color codes and touch-up kits accessible from auto provide retailers or the native dealer. Once the ultimate color has been applied and dried, do the ultimate sanding with 1000-grit wet sandpaper. Once you are positive the paint is totally dry, use rubbing compound to say the shine on the new paint.
Eradicate Rust

For rust, the foremost necessary issue to recollect is to eradicate all the corrosion on your initial attempt. If you do not, you will be chasing that very same rust spot for the lifetime of the vehicle or the remainder of your life, whichever comes initial. Here are the essential steps to follow:

Grind the rust right down to vacant metal. An orbital, or circular, sander is that the best tool for this job, however it will be done by hand. Again, your goal may be a taper from the rust space out to scrub metal out to smart paint.

Here's where the electrical drill comes into play. Drill holes round the space beyond the first rust spot, forming a base for the body repair screen. Cut the adhesive-backed repair screen to suit over the rust space however at intervals the drill holes. place the repair screen in place.

Once the patch has cured, apply body putty, shaping and sanding for a swish, seamless transition from the repaired space out to the first paint.

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Cleaning Windows Car Glass

Depending on how fast or slow these ingredients evaporate and how highly concentrated they are found in the window cleaner, you may have streaking problems. The residue from these ingredients will sometimes dry and evaporate on the glass before your window towel can remove them. Window cleaners need to be properly diluted. More is not better. The higher the concentration level is of your cleaner, the greater possibility for streaking exists.
Once you know you have the correct dilution of window cleaner and you know the cleaner is not the source of streaking, there are still other areas to examine for streaks.

• Type of towel
  With so many types of towels available, it is very confusing to figure out which will be the best for window cleaning. You need a towel that is absorbent, lint free, and will actually help clean the glass. Many detailers still use terry cloth towels to clean windows, and unfortunately, these are not the best choice. Once these towels get too wet, they lose absorption and will only spread the dirt and moisture around the glass until it all evaporates on its own, leaving the glass full of streaks. These towels also leave a tremendous amount of lint. I have been searching for the best available window towel for years and still have yet to find the perfect one. However, your best choice will be a micro fiber towel in the form of a waffle weave or a 100% cotton surgical towel. I use these in combination which will be discussed later. 
• Contamination- another source of streaking can be contamination. You may have contaminated towels from a few sources. If you are using your window towels for any other purpose, they may be contaminated with other products you are using. I have seen detailers use the same towel to wipe excess tire dressing from wheels and use that exact towel to clean windows and wonder why his windows were not coming out so well! Many detailers will have towels dedicated for window cleaning only, but they will wash them along with towels that have been wiping up excess tire dressing or polish and wax. All of this residue may contaminate window towels if they are all washed together. Window towels need to be washed separate from all other towels. It is also a good idea to run them through a second rinse cycle to fully wash away any contamination.
• Not using enough cleaner- Many detailers that I observe cleaning windows simply do not use enough window cleaner. They think that too much liquid will take too long to clean up, or they are afraid to get their window towel too wet, knowing this can be problematic later on. Consequently, their method of window cleaning is to use a small amount of cleaner and let the towel do the rest. This results in the cleaner being wiped up and dried too quickly and dirt just being pushed around the glass and not totally picked up. This will cause streaking.
• Spraying cleaner on the towel- I also see many detailers spray the window cleaner directly on the towel. This is incorrect. By spraying the cleaner on the towel, you are letting the cleaner soak into the towel and not soak into the dirt that is on the glass. This also equates to not enough product being used and will result in streaks.

Being in hurry - many detailers simply rush the entire process. They think the glass is fairly clean to begin with, so they give the glass a quick spritz, quickly run the towel back and forth, and assume they have correctly cleaned the window. Being in a hurry also leads to poor technique which will further enhance the possibility of streaking

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